How to Make a Military Shirt

Instructions
Things You'll Need:

Flexible tape measure
Pattern paper
Drafting pencils
Ruler
French curve ruler
Dark felt-tip marker
Scissors
Fabric (1/2 yard: your choice)
Pantone color wheel
Straight pins
Fabric scissors
Fusible web
Tailor's chalk
Iron
Sewing machine
Button-hole machine attachment
Dress form
Hand sewing needle
Thread
Gold- or silver- tone buttons
Military embroidered iron-on patches (optional)

Drafting the Military Details
1

Measure the width and length for your epaulettes with a flexible tape measure. Epaulettes are separate strap-like extensions placed on both shoulders. A 2-inch width by 5 ½-inch length dimension generally covers the entire shoulder area. Look through fashion magazines for inspiration, as well as different versions.
2

Draft the pattern for the epaulettes on pattern paper with your drafting pencils using the dimensions taken in step 1. Use a ruler to make the pattern to ensure sharp lines. Add ½-inch seam allowance for stitching.
3

Measure the width and length of your front pocket flaps. If your design includes chest patch pockets, you will need to take a separate measurement.
4

Draft the pocket flap, as well as patch pocket pattern, using the dimensions from step 3. Add ½-inch seam allowance for stitching.



If your design includes rounded pocket corners, use a French curve ruler. Another option is to add an inverted center pleat detail on the patch pocket.
5

Mark your epaulette and pocket flap patterns for your button placement with a dark felt-tip marker.
6

Cut out your patterns with your scissors.You will have two pieces of fabric for each epaulette for a total of four pieces and two pieces of fabric for each pocket flap for a total of four pieces. Keep in mind that you will be facing each epaulette and pocket flap. Facing is a term referring to a second layer of fabric stitched to the top layer that gives a clean finish on both sides.



If your design includes patch pockets, you will have two pieces of fabric.
7

Pick your fabric and colors for your shirt. For instance, if your shirt is 100% cotton twill or canvas, duplicate the fabric as well as color. If you are unable to locate the same color fabric, pick a complementary color from your Pantone color wheel. For example, if your shirt is an army green tone such as Calia Green #18-0435, select khaki or brown tones like Warm Taupe #16-1318, Camel #17-1224, Tobacco Brown #17-1327 or Monk's Robe #18-1048.
8

Pin the patterns on your fabric with your straight pins. Cut out with your fabric scissors. Make sure you cut two parts for each epaulette and two parts for each pocket flap for your facing.
9

Pin the patterns to fusible web and cut out. This does not apply to patch pockets.
10

Mark your button-hole placement on your fabric with tailor's chalk.
Making Your Military Shirt
1

Apply your fusible web to one side of your epaulette. Repeat this with your second epaulette. Apply fusible web to one side of your pocket flap. Repeat this with your second pocket flap. Set your iron on your brand's recommended setting. Glide the iron in a back and forth motion until it is fused to the fabric.
2

Pin two pieces of fabric together to make one epaulette with the fusible side facing out. Repeat this for your second epaulette. Pin two pieces of fabric together to make one pocket flap with the fusible side facing out. Repeat this for your second pocket flap.
3

Machine stitch each epaulette separately, leaving one corner open. Machine stitch each pocket flap separately, leaving one corner open. Turn the epaulettes and pocket flaps inside out. You will have two epaulettes and two pocket flaps.
4

Turn the raw seam edge of the open corner inward on your epaulettes and pocket flaps. Iron the seam and top stitch it closed for a crisp finish. If your design includes patch pockets, you will need to turn in the seam allowance and iron. The raw seams will be unexposed.
5

Change your machine's straight stitch foot attachment to the button-hole attachment. Make your button-holes and slit the center with your scissors for the button opening.
6

Pin your epaulettes, patch pockets and flaps to your shirt. Try on the shirt carefully or place it on your dress form. Make sure both sides of the pinned shirt are even.
7

Topstitch or double needle topstitch the epaulettes, patch pockets and flaps to the shirt. Cut away all loose threads.
8

Thread your hand sewing needle with a complementary thread color. Hand sew gold- or silver- tone shank buttons to complete your recycled military shirt. Add military inspired embroidery iron-on patches as an decorative option.